Ulrich Lang, a fragrance entrepreneur who successfully melded
the world of art and fragrance creation in his original Anvers fragrance,
launched three years ago, has prepared a sequel to support and expand his
vision. When Lang launched his first men's fragrance in 2003, he entered a
highly specialized market, with a unique fragrance and a unique point of view.
As a former L'Oreal executive who held a variety of positions in art publishing,
where he honed his visual vocabulary, he wanted to combine his passion for
contemporary photography with his love of fine fragrance.
Lang selected Roger Szmulewicz, a prominent Belgian dealer
in 20th-century photography, whose gallery is located in Antwerp, as his muse
and the face of Lang's premiere men's fragrance line, Anvers; named for the
French word for Antwerp, a center where many art, fashion and design trends
originate. Lang wanted to capture the introspective elegance he observed in
Roger, in a fragrance that was at once self-assured, but self-effacing and
modest. He believes that introspection has become a new way of looking at
fragrance and oneself. His first Anvers, while minimalist in nature, fused
fresh aromatics and spices with classic florals, modern leather notes, woods
and ambers. Top notes of bergamot, lime and tangerine, highlighted with sage,
mint and basil, plus heart notes of violet, jasmine and geranium warmed with
sesame and honey, met base notes of leather, moss, precious woods and amber.
The result was a warm fusion, which was both fresh and provocative, and a
departure from what have been generally referred to as "men's scents."
He launched at stores worldwide including Barney's New York
and Los Angeles; Holt Renfrew, Toronto; Liberty, London; Le Printemps, Paris;
10 Corso Como, Milan; Departmentstore Quartier 206, Berlin; and Lobby, Barcelona,
and his brand included Eau de Toilette and a Scented Candle. As recognition
of the brand grew, Lang learned not only the importance of having a great
juice, which is the ultimate aspect of your product, but he also became increasingly
aware of the importance of building and maintaining relationships, and acknowledges
the reciprocity required in the development of a fragrance brand. This has
impacted the creation and rolling out of his newest entry, which he terms
his sequel in the Anvers story.
Building The Sequel
Anvers 2, the next generation of Anvers, offers a contemporary
reflection of art, visual cognition, and creativity. Lang says, "We wanted
to create a canvas for contemporary art." This is clearly reflected by
the photography on the outer packaging of the fragrance, as well as in the
visual re-imagining found in the fragrance itself. Szmulewicz, muse once again,
is photographed in a secluded park in Antwerp by American artist, Katy Grannan.
The image makes nature, tranquility, and sensual expression part of the discourse
surrounding the fragrance. "The photo is a direct link to the fragrance,"
says Lang, "and was a starting point for this fragrance."
Reiterating his commitment to visual and aesthetic synergies
in fragrance and beyond, Lang says, "You really need to look at a product
to see if it is for you. Individualism is a growing aspect of the process.
I believe people are less influenced by advertising messages. And while you
might be intrigued by an advertising message, it's not the ultimate decision
making factor in a purchase."
Lang adds, "Our positioning is for a certain customer,
a knowledgeable and educated consumer." He underscores the importance
of working closely with specialty retailers, such as Barney's and Takashimaya,
which carry Anvers 2. "They understand niche. It's not always easy and
you have to have patience to build the specific brand. Anvers 2 is for a different
consumer. People going into Barney's are looking for something different."
"We want to be focused and develop relationships with our key retailers.
We're not doing a strategy where our fragrance is everywhere." He describes
the new scent as warm and inviting, characterizing the blend as an enveloping
fragrance with clarity and freshness. The notes in Anvers 2 are warm, inviting,
and intimate. Top notes in the fragrance are Bergamot, Lime, Lemon, Black
Pepper, Wild Basil, Rhubarb and Cypress. The heart notes are Bulgarian Rose,
Jasmine, Lily, Mimosa, Blond Woods, including Cedarwood and Sandalwood, and
Vetiver; while the base notes are comprised of Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk,
amber, Olibanum and Oakmoss.
Lang says, "The visual vocabulary of the new fragrance
is very important. It's all about scent and smell, visuals, for the eye, for
all the senses." As a fragrance entrepreneur with a keen sense of the
visual and experiential, which clearly translated to the development of his
fragrance, Lang, a Stuttgart native, says he can think of no location which
would have provided as much energy and inspiration for his business as New
York. "This is New York City and I would not have started this business
anywhere else," said Lang, whose distinction as a finalist at the 2006
Fashion Group International Rising Star Awards in the Fragrance and Beauty
Entrepreneur Category, attests to his achievement.
Perspective on the Men's Fragrance Market
Lang, whose sophisticated nose and artistic sensibility have
propelled his interest in fine fragrance, observed the current market for
diverse and non-traditional scents. "Men are using heavier scents now
than they have previously, and they are using scent as a form of seduction,
beyond feeling fresh and clean. It has been done in Europe for a long time,
and the Middle East has lots of heavier scents." He observed the use
of exotic woods, like Oud wood, in the Middle East, which he says has been
a popular ingredient in that part of the world for many years.
While it is clear that Lang has a passion for fragrance,
it is also evident that he has a sense of what customers are seeking and what
he sees as the specialty men's fragrance market, beyond the traditional scents
that have been blithely applied as part of basic grooming and personal care
regimens. "I'm the marketing side of putting it all together," he
says, "and I have a good nose for the fragrance." Anvers 2, which
is launching in February 2007 at Barney's New York, in New York, Los Angeles,
Seattle, Chicago, Dallas and Barney's Coop in Miami Beach, will also be carried
by Takashimaya, Aedes de Venustas, and Wynn's Casino, in Las Vegas. In March
2007, Anvers 2 goes to Liberty, in London, then Berlin, and Dubai and the
Middle East in April 2007.
Anvers 2 will retail for $94 USD, for the 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette,
and a new web site has also launched for Ulrich Lang New York Fragrances by
Paris Anvers, at www.ulrichlangnewyork.com.