Ingredients with Bad Press - SILICONES

Basic Silica is silicon dioxide or SiO₂, it occurs in a crystalline state, an amorphous (shapeless) state and in impure forms such as quartz, opal and sand. It is the primary constituent of the Earth's crust. It is usually found in the form of silicates. Silicones are synthetic polymers and are made by combining oxygen and silicon in high temperatures and pressures. In cosmetics the crystalline form of silica is being avoided for health and safety reasons and only the amorphous forms and silicates are being used.

Silicones are a large group of synthetic compounds that can include large and small polymers. Depending on the formula and the degree of polymerization and cross-linking of the polymers, they may be slippery liquids, waxes, or rubbers. Silicone compounds are used in cosmetics to form films and absorb sebum from the skin and to prevent shine. They have a low coefficient of friction and add slip in most product applications. There are also medical grade elastomers that are being used.

Silicones are used as emollients and skin softeners, as lubricants, thickeners, and volatile liquids that make products feel smooth, but evaporate without leaving a greasy residue. Cyclopentasiloxane is a low viscosity, volatile liquid used as a carrier. It lubricates, and prevents hair sprays from being sticky to the touch. It evaporates completely, leaving no residue. Dimethicone is another name for polydimethylsiloxane and is used to impart a soft velvety feel to hair or skin products. It is also used as an emulsifier for "water-in-oil" emulsions. It comes in many viscosity grades and can be used to make skin protectant claims. Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a film forming resin, used to keep hand lotions and sunscreens from washing off. Cetearyl methicone is a polysiloxane wax. It replaces petrolatum in products such as hand lotions to give them a non-greasy feel. Silicone products all have good solubility and compatibility with one another.

The following tip comes from dermatologist Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Clinical Associate Professor of Dermatology at Wake Forest University School of Medicine in Winston-Salem, NC. She can help you find the best cosmetics for sensitive skin. She also has her dermatology office in High Point, NC. She is a member of the SCC and frequent lecturer at many SCC meetings nationwide. She recommends using foundations based on silicones. While powder is preferred to protect sensitive skin and to absorb excess oils and reduce skin shine, women choosing a liquid foundation should look for the ones with a silicone base. Liquid facial foundations based on silicone do not cause acne, and silicone has a very low incidence of skin irritation. This comes from a prominent dermatologist. So to all those websites that sound like they know every skull and crossbones ingredient out there try again.

According to Dow Corning, a major supplier of silicones to the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, silicones have become a major presence in color cosmetics because they offer a soft, silky and non-oily feel during and after application. Their multifunctional properties offer flexibility for developing new textures and stable systems. They are more than simple additives, they offer important benefits in formula functionality and processing. They also go on to say that Dow Corning silicones boost performance and improve the feel of sunscreens. In decorative cosmetics, silicone waxes that are used in lipsticks and foundation ensure that the colored pigments used are reliably held in place and do not migrate. The FDA recognizes silicones (dimethicone) as ingredients that can be used to make OTC drug claims as a "skin protectant." So even the US Government recognizes the safety of silicones in cosmetics and personal care products.

Mind you if there is an ingredient that is deemed potentially hazardous, the industry wastes no time in removing this suspect ingredient from all its formulations. Such is the case with D4 cyclomethicones or cyclotetrasiloxane (Dow Corning 244 Fluid for example). The industry does not use this ingredient any longer and has moved to blends of the D5 and D6 grades of cyclomethicones. But you will still have those out there that still think the industry uses the D4 grade and base all their negative publicity on this outdated information, which is not fair to the consumer or the industry.