Skin Care Synergies – Balancing Health and Radiant Looking Skin - Editorials

Euromonitor Views Skin Care Trends

As the definitions of categories are being blurred, cosmetics are spreading their influence and including ingredients that have functional or active properties. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products which have a degree of medicinal properties, said Euromonitor. Nutricosmetics are supplements, which are aimed at improving outward appearance, and while usually ingested, include Vitamins A, C and E, minerals and/or trace elements.

Another category of benefit-rich products, are Nutraceuticals. These are foods and drinks with pharmaceutical ingredients. They are often either drinks or yogurts, fortified with ingredients such as collagen or co-enzyme Q-10. To date, thee have been strongest in Japan, but manufacturers are now introducing them to new markets. According to Euromonitor, these definitions have largely been created by manufacturers and promoted by beauty publications and retailers. Legal definitions of categories have not changed, as drugs and cosmetics have different standards of development and manufacture.

Supplements, however, are being added across product categories, with vitamins being put into hair care, drinks and sun care products. In addition, interest in both high-tech ingredients and natural ingredients is growing, with no apparent tension between the two different approaches. Clearly, food and drink are getting in on the beauty act with nutricosmetic drinks and yogurts. While this is still a relatively small category, there is a great deal of innovation, often from Asia, and the idea of "drinking yourself beautiful," is likely to have wide appeal.

Cosmeceuticals, often known as "performance cosmetics," or "functional cosmetics," are generally used topically, and products in this category may range from such items as Strivectin, originally developed to repair stretch marks, through the doctor brands, like Weil, Perricone and Murad, and also include the more mass-market products, such as L'Oreal's Omega 3 range.

Nutricosmetics are supplements aimed at outward appearance, and are often a combination of cosmetics and nutritional supplements that work together. Beauty supplements that contain a nutritional supplement, such as Vitamins, A, C, and E, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids and copper, are among these. They are said to promote healthy eyes, skin, teeth and nails, and may be combined with the topical application of supplements, and are generally ingested.

Nutraceuticals, from fortified foods and beverages to dietary supplements, are blurring the boundaries between food and pharmaceuticals. To date, according to Euromonitor, nutraceuticals have been strongest in Japan, where both drinks and yogurts with health benefits have been developed and successfully marketed. Shiseido has tapped into the demand for light skin and introduced pureWhite, a fortified beauty drink claiming to promote the whitening of the skin.

As manufacturers innovate by adding new and potent active ingredients to cosmetics there are demands for regulation. At the moment, much of the cosmetics industry is self-regulating. However, said Euromonitor, this may change as the underlying technologies and ingredients change and new formats become available. Demands are coming from two angles, from consumer protection, where more potent ingredients increase the risk of side effects; and from competitive claims in advertising. Clearly, this is an evolutionary process, and functionality will continue to emerge as a key element of the beauty process.

www.euromonitorintl.com

A Dermatologist's Perspective

In Dr. Graf's new book, Stop Aging, Start Living the author introduces a two-week pH diet that is said to erase wrinkles, beautify skin, and make you feel fantastic. Dr. Jeanette Graf, a leading dermatologist and former National Institutes of Health (NIH) researcher, has found that healthy skin requires an internal acid/alkaline balance. Healthy, vibrant cells, not only on the top layer of skin, but throughout the entire body and in the brain, are the author's prescription for results.

The four non-intrusive recommendations she makes are:

Nutrition: Maintain a 3 to 1 ratio of alkalinizing food to acid-producing food by consuming dark, leafy greens, filtered water, lemons, nuts, seeds, olive oil and specific whole grains. She notes that acid-producing age accelerators are sugar, cola, coffee, and animal protein.
Supplements: Drink a daily cocktail of green plant powder, fiber, and water; and take a calcium pill and a probiotic supplement to improve digestion.
Lifestyle: Participate weekly in an activity, such as dancing, pottery, or gardening, which will release the brain chemicals that bring happiness and serenity.
Skin Care: Use a daily moisturizer, sun block, and eye cream right for your age and skin.

Dr. Graf's research also indicates that having fun is an essential component to looking great, so she emphasizes lifestyle changes to help readers relax, such as laughing with abandon, embracing a loved one, or listening to a favorite song. In addition to her book, Dr. Graf's essentials kit includes Spirulina Pacifica tablets, for eye health, immune function, cellular health and increased energy; Pro-Bio Dietary Supplements; and Greens First® Anti-Oxidant Powder, fortified with Beta-Glucan, a USDA patented oat fiber, which when used in her program, will combine to aid in healthy digestion, overall body health and glowing skin.

www.askdrgraf.com

Serums, Supplements and Synergies

Priori Bio-Engineered Skin Care is a new entry in the area of beauty from the inside out. It is referred to as the first Superceutical™ Skincare Dietary Supplement with Idebenone, a potent antioxidant. Idebenone supplements are said to enhance skin radiance and skin health by supplying anti-oxidant protection against the causes of skin aging and skin damage. According to the Priori Co., Idebenone is a bio-engineered analog of Coenzyme Q10, a natural respiratory chain antioxidant found in all cellular plasma and mitochondrial membranes that plays an essential role in the energy production of a cell.

Taken in capsule form, Idebenone has been shown to benefit a variety of age-related disorders, with its main benefits targeting anti-aging; energy enhancement; cognition enhancement, cell and organ protection and metabolism support. The product is said to create glowing and healthy skin from the inside out. It is available in capsule form, to be taken once or twice a day, for best effect.

According to Bob Capelli, Vice President of Sales & Marketing, Cyanotech Corporation, which processes natural Astaxanthin, "The use of Astaxanthin as a topical or internal skin protectant is one new and exciting application. It has long been known that Astaxanthin is the strongest natural antioxidant, and research in the last few years has demonstrated its effectiveness as an antiinflammatory as well. Now some positive benefits for Astaxanthin in various functional roles are surfacing, one of the most promising of which is for skin health. Due to Astaxanthin's ability to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation (a use that has been patented by Cyanotech Corporation, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii), it has the desired effect of preventing skin from premature aging. This will be one of the most interesting applications from a commercial perspective." Capelli noted that the natural Astaxanthin, which is extracted from algae by a team of individuals employed by Cyanotech in Hawaii, is utilized as a strong antioxidant in a wide range of products, due to its superior antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. According to the company, there are indications it will prove to be superior to other nutraceuticals for eye and brain health, as well as for skin.

In Capelli's book, Astaxanthin: King of the Carotenoids, he cites the ingredient's ability as an internal beauty supplement and internal sunscreen. Findings have shown that Astaxanthin alone, or in combination with retinol was effective in preventing photoaging of the skin, and demonstrated protection against UVA light-induced oxidative stress. It was also shown to protect the skin from UV damage when applied topically. According to the findings, "Results suggest that topically applied Astaxanthin, which scavenges singlet oxygen effectively, can play an important role in protecting the skin from photo-damages such as lipid peroxidation, sunburn reaction, phototoxicity and photo-allergy induced by singlet oxygen." In addition, the ingredient has been shown to reduce melanin, the substance that can cause freckles, age spots and skin staining. Research continues to show success in increasing moisture levels of the skin, reducing fine wrinkles, and improving skin's elasticity.

Moving from anti-inflammatory efficacy to energizing and slenderizing benefits, two companies have launched a co-branding initiative that features FUZE Slenderizing, nutrient-rich beverages, and Too Faced Cosmetics. FUZE beverages, which introduced drinks infused with health benefits and antioxidants, without high fructose corn syrup or preservatives, has partnered with the cosmetics company to create Too Faced FUZE Slenderize Guilt Free Gloss. According to the company, "you'll fee as great on the inside as you'll look on the outside," which is the newest mantra for synergistic cosmetics.

The glosses are available in three glossy, fruit flavors, Dragonfruit Lime, Strawberry Melon, and Blueberry Raspberry, and contain the same actives found in the slenderizing beverages; including Chromium, a micronutrient known to improve the amount of energy received from food; L-Carnitine, an amino acid to boost energy; and Super Citrimax, to maintain a normal appetite and increase energy, while supporting healthy metabolism.

www.prioriskincare.com
www.cyanotech.com
www.toofaced.com.

Ayurvedic Balance

Representing harmony in beauty is the balance of product and philosophy exemplified by Sundari. The company, which features a distinctive collection of anti-aging skincare products and spa treatments created from pure ingredients and rare essences, is positioned on the principles of holism and wellness, which enable the achievement of harmony and balance in mind, body and spirit. According to Rahul Koul, COO, Sundari, "Ayurveda is the traditional healing science of India. It suggests that a balanced lifestyle leads to a healthy body and mind. Sundari combines adherence to ayurvedic principles with the finest quality ingredients from nature, delivering a holistic approach to wellness that results in outer radiance and inner serenity."

The products and treatments were founded on the theory that one's skin is a direct reflection of the inner state of being. Inspired by the ancient science of Ayurveda, the science of life and longevity, Sundari formulations utilize regenerative properties of plants, many of which originated in the Himalayan region. The botanicals contained in the products have natural, antibacterial, antiseptic, anti-fungal and preservative properties, and the essential oils are extracted from aromatic herbs, trees, bushes, flowers, seeds and shrubs from all over the world. The skin care line includes 22 facial skin care products, 3 new body products, including Neem and Date Seed Exfoliator, with Pumpkin Enzymes, Rooibos Leaf Powder, Lavender Oil, Neem Leaf Extract and Date Seed Powder, and is a dual-action non-foaming cleanser and exfoliator.

The Nighttime Nourishing Oil, with Neroli, Eucalyptus, and German Chamomile Oil, plus Vitamins A and E, is an antioxidant, non-comedogenic treatment that is designed to improve skin elasticity, protect the skin from damaging free radicals, maintain radiance and smooth texture, and provide the skin with nutrients to strengthen skin over time. To complement the skin treatment products, Sundari recently introduced three new ethereal candle scents, Bakula, reminiscent of orange flower and tuberose with a gardenia undertone; Keora, with the fragrant flowers of the Keora plant, and a honey-hyacinth scent to inspire creativity and rejuvenation; and Madura, symbolic of the labor required to yield knowledge of the self hidden within us, which contains an aromatic flavor that suppresses its sweet nectarine juices beneath an outer layer of sugarcane. Blended with a hint of lime, Madura is a scent that captivates the senses, while each works in harmony with the skin care products to extend the philosophy of the ancient science of Ayurveda, ultimately to balance the three Doshas, or elements (air, fire and earth), which comprise each individual.

Glowology, from Noodle & Boo®, features a line of products which address special needs over a woman's lifetime, to nurture and protect the skin for women through cycles of weight gain and weight loss, pregnancy, and for women who are new moms and nursing newborns.

The Lovely Body Lotion for sensitive skin contains a potent antioxidant complex to fight free radicals and environmental stress, while maintaining a gentle touch for sensitive skin. The Afterglow Gel, for firming and slimming, and the Honey Child Scrub, to gently exfoliate and moisturize, are part of the overall body wellness message of this line. Glowology products are available at boutiques, spas, hospitals and dermatologist offices throughout the US.

www.sundari.com
www.noodleandboo.com.

Skin by Monica Olsen

Skin by Monica Olsen™ takes the curative message to the inside as well as the outside. With her new product, The Cure Wrinkle Reducer, Olsen has taken Vitamin C and Retinol A, both antioxidants which reduce oxidative stress and increase vision and bone growth, and incorporated them into this topical treatment. The Cure is designed to relax wrinkles and rebuild collagen, the connective matrix of the skin. It is to be applied sparingly to areas of concern, daily at bedtime after moisturizer.

In addition to The Cure, Olsen has released a synergistic accompaniment in the form of Young Vitamins. Skin by Monica, who is an L.A.-based, model, actress and mother, is designed to take care of the skin from the inside out. The ingestibles she has launched work synergistically with vitamins and minerals to enhance the skin. The four ingestibles are called, Cleanse, Pure, Beautiful and Young. Cleanse works to provide internal balance. Beautiful works to achieve beautiful hair, skin and nails; Pure, is designed to support a healthy metabolism; and Young, the fourth offering in the line, seeks to reverse the aging process by aiding in moisture retention, reducing fine lines and improving overall texture of the skin.