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Top experts review the latest patents they read and the latest papers and lectures they attended at conferences; they then make a selection of the most promising technologies and summarize in a few lines what the substance you should take away with you.
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Eric Abrutyn

Special Featured R&D Highlights

  • Jul 28, 2010 - Naturally Derived Anti-microbial - Patent
    There continues to be introductions of new antimicrobial actives. With the growing trend and demand for naturally derived ingredients, a new US...

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  • Jul 28, 2010 - Naturally Derived Anti-microbial - Patent
    There continues to be introductions of new antimicrobial actives. With the growing trend and demand for naturally derived ingredients, a new US...
  • Jul 28, 2010 - Plant Stem Cell - Patent
    Disclosed is information on a potential source for anti-aging using the mechanism of epidermal stem cells based on grape and apple sourcing. It is...
  • Jul 21, 2010 - Probiotic Anti-Aging - Technical Paper
    L'Oreal Youth Code Rejuvenating Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream claims to trigger the skin's own growth factors. Based on patented products around the latest...
  • Jul 21, 2010 - Skincare & Superfruit Deodorancy - Technical Paper
    In the US, Procter & Gamble has launched a Calming Garden Antiperspirant Deodorant under its Secret Soothing Effects brand. The product is said to... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Jul 14, 2010 - Encapsulated UV filters - Technical Paper
    Excessive exposure of skin to UV radiation can lead to skin cancer. Although UV-B is the more energetic component, it is also the less penetrating...
  • Jul 14, 2010 - Hair lipids and hair appearance - Technical Paper
    The cuticle cells of animal hair are covered with a lipid monolayer which makes their surface hydrophobic, so that water rolls of the surface of the...
  • Jul 07, 2010 - Hops for skin protection - Technical Paper
    Hops (humulus lupulus L.) is generally used for the brewing of malt liquors such as beer. The leaves and the pistillate flowers give a bitter...
  • Jul 07, 2010 - Microstructural features of curved hair - Technical Paper
    Appearance of hair is affected by shape of hair, color and luster. In the recent past it has been observed that age plays an important role in hair...
  • Jun 30, 2010 - New anti-inflammatory actives - Technical Paper
    Human skin is the external protective organ against chemical (depilation), mechanical (shaving) and environmental (UV damage) stresses. The immediate... (3 Member Reactions)
  • Jun 30, 2010 - Silicones help natural products - Technical Paper
    Currently there is a global trend towards using natural products. A big consumer outlet is for natural oils and butters. These materials have been... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Jun 23, 2010 - Chitin in anti-aging formulations - Technical Paper
    Skin aging leads to decline in its functions such as increase in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), decrease in the production of collagen, elastin... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Jun 23, 2010 - Tea in skin cosmetics - Technical Paper
    Tea generally refers to a high temperature extract of a plant product. Many of these are used for drinking, normally referred to as herbal teas. ... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Jun 16, 2010 - Epidermis-dermis “cross-talk” in skin ageing - Technical Paper
    Excessive UV exposure leads to ageing of the skin exemplified by the appearance of wrinkles and colored spots. It has been generally hypothesized to...
  • Jun 16, 2010 - Trace minerals in skin aging - Technical Paper
    It is well known in free radical chemistry that copper, iron and other transition metal ions interact with superoxide radical and hydrogen peroxide...
  • Jun 09, 2010 - Anti-ageing with plant based stem cells - Technical Paper
    Stem cells are known for their ability to generate different type of cell in the organism. These are very much in the news now because of their... (3 Member Reactions)
  • Jun 09, 2010 - Anti-perspirant efficacy - Technical Paper
    Anti perspirant activity is determined by a gravimetric method approved by FDA involving a hot-room protocol. This paper discusses a more cost...
  • Jun 02, 2010 - Improving acne treatments - Patent
    Acne is the most common undesirable skin condition caused by follicular malfunction, bacteria in the follicular canal, and excessive sebum production....
  • Jun 02, 2010 - Inorganic ions in skin care - Patent
    The skin serves numerous functions but its primary function is as a protective layer or barrier to control the transportation of moisture from the... (2 Member Reactions)
  • May 26, 2010 - Marine botanicals for anti-aging applications of skin - Patent
    Human skin is susceptible to premature aging due to malnutrition, exposure to external elements such as pollutants and sunlight and conditions of...
  • May 26, 2010 - Molecular structure and skin effects - Technical Paper
    This paper discusses the allergic and sensitization effects of two isomeric products used as moisturizers in cosmetics. The compounds are propanediol... (1 Member Reaction)
  • May 19, 2010 - Nano-Cosmetics - Technical Paper
    Nanomaterials have been used in “cosmetics” since antiquity. Use of fine particle smooth clays for cleansing skin was a common practice in old...
  • May 19, 2010 - Natural moisturizing factors in skin - Technical Paper
    Natural moisturizing factors (NMF) are an important part of the stratum corneum (SC). These are important for the maintenance of moisture balance,...
  • May 12, 2010 - Regeneration of natural moisturizing factors - Technical Paper
    Prolonged exposure of skin to water is detrimental to its health. A primary reason is the loss of natural moisturizing factors (NMF). Damage as a...
  • May 12, 2010 - Water waving of human hair - Technical Paper
    Permanent waving of human hair using reducing agents is a well known process. Such waving is relatively stable and therefore, often referred to as...
  • May 05, 2010 - Visualization of product deposition - Conference
    The cosmetic industry thrives on products such as shampoos and conditioners. These are products based on surfactants and polymers which help to clean...
  • Apr 28, 2010 - A new conditioning polymer - Technical Paper
    In the field of hair conditioning a number of natural polymers are used after suitable modification of their structure to deposit on hair and impart...
  • Apr 21, 2010 - Asian skin Vs Black or Caucasian skin - Technical Paper
    There are reports that Asian skin (AS) is more sensitive compared to Black skin (BS) or Caucasian skin (CS). A few studies have been conducted to...
  • Apr 21, 2010 - Cosmetic preservatives - Technical Paper
    Personal care products contain significant amounts of water and other natural or synthetic ingredients. The product can be contaminated with...
  • Apr 14, 2010 - Sunless tanning - Conference
    In the western world sun-tanned appearance of white skin is considered a valuable cosmetic asset. However, getting there by exposing the skin to sun...
  • Apr 14, 2010 - Tape stripping in dermatology - Technical Paper
    Stratum corneum (SC) is the uppermost layer of the epidermis of human skin. It consists of several layers of cells making up a thickness of ~20 µm. ...
  • Apr 07, 2010 - Fatigue testing of hair - Technical Paper
    Hair is a unique biological fiber whose strength and structure depend on nutrition and environmental factors. If nutrition is normal then the...
  • Apr 07, 2010 - In vitro SPF testing - Technical Paper
    In vitro SPF testing has become common place in the cosmetic industry because of the complications involved in “in vivo” testing. A typical in vitro...
  • Mar 31, 2010 - Skin barrier perturbation by surfactants - Technical Paper
    The epidermis of the human skin is an important organ which controls the loss of moisture and body temperature as well as protects the body from...
  • Mar 31, 2010 - Surface energy in cosmetics - Conference
    Color cosmetic foundations are often applied to enhance the beauty of skin. In the design of such products the surface energies of the liquid, the...
  • Mar 24, 2010 - Vernix Caseosa, a fetal moisturizer - Technical Paper
    Vernix caseosa (VC) is a cream like white substance covering the skin of a new born baby. It is synthesized by the fetus in the sebaceous glands in... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Mar 24, 2010 - Withania Somnifera for skin care - Patent
    Generation of free radicals on exposure of the skin to UV radiation is often implicated in aging effects such as wrinkling and loss of elasticity, and...
  • Mar 17, 2010 - Antiaging delivery systems - Patent
    Prevention of premature aging of the skin is of top priority in skin care cosmetics. Premature aging is the result of exposing the skin to...
  • Mar 17, 2010 - Back to oils and fattyacids - Patent
    Natural vegetable oils are extensively used globally for hair and skin care. Oils are perceived to be undesirable, especially for hair because of...
  • Mar 10, 2010 - Better photostability for sunscreens - Technical Paper
    Sunscreens are chemical compounds which can absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat by internal molecular processes. This process involves the... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Mar 10, 2010 - Caffeine as a slimming agent - Patent
    Caffeine is a slimming agent known to act through the adipocytes in the hypodermis. This paper offers encapsulation technology to deliver caffeine to...
  • Mar 10, 2010 - Disulfide bonds-a unique feature of keratin fibers - Technical Paper
    Keratin fibers like wool, and hair are characterized by the presence of disulfide bonds which give the fiber strength, stability and some unique... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Mar 03, 2010 - Electrolyzed water for cosmetics - Patent
    In the electrolysis of water hydrogen is liberated at the cathode and oxygen at the anode. The water in the anode compartment is rich in dissolved... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Mar 03, 2010 - Gels as vehecles for anti-cellulite actives - Technical Paper
    Cellulite is a skin condition mostly observed in women where the affected skin develops a dimpled appearance caused by alterations in the adipose...
  • Feb 24, 2010 - Radical generation in titanium dioxide - Technical Paper
    Titanium dioxide is extensively used in cosmetic products such as foundations,lipstick, and sunscreens. One drawback of untreated TiO2 is that it...
  • Feb 24, 2010 - Zinc oxide for UV protection - Technical Paper
    Zinc oxide (ZNO) has been used as a sunscreen because of its photostability as well as safety. However, ZNO has larger particle size and higher...
  • Feb 17, 2010 - Natural waxes in cosmetics - Technical Paper
    Moisture management is an important requirement for skin comfort. Excessive moisture loss leads to roughness and irritation of the skin. Many of the...
  • Feb 17, 2010 - Silicone surfactants - Technical Paper
    Silicone polymers are extensively used in both hair and skin care products. This is because of their smooth feel due to very low surface energy. The...
  • Feb 17, 2010 - Viscoelastic impairment of relaxed African-American hair - Conference
    Manageability of African-American (AA) hair is poor because of its highly curly nature. Robust combing and application of hot irons renders the hair... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Feb 10, 2010 - Distinguishing photo, and physiological ageing of skin - Technical Paper
    Photochemical degradation leading to aging of the skin occurs from outside inwards, whereas, physical aging takes place only on the inside. ... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Feb 10, 2010 - Echium oil, an all round benefactor for skin - Technical Paper
    Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) are important in the development of moisture barriers in the skin. The most important of these PUFAs are linoleic...
  • Feb 10, 2010 - Kudzu extract in procollagen production in skin - Technical Paper
    Cytoglobin is a more recently discovered globin protein which seems to have antioxidant properties as well as the ability to affect cell functions at...
  • Feb 03, 2010 - Active loaded skin masks - Patent
    Although actives benefiting the skin are often formulated into creams or lotions, application of masks is becoming popular especially in a facility...
  • Feb 03, 2010 - Anti-irritant botanicals - Patent
    Skin irritation is caused by reaction of different constituents of the skin with external or internally produced compounds. The body generally...
  • Feb 03, 2010 - Antimicrobials - Technical Paper
    Hand sanitizing has become a proven approach to prevent the spreading of diseases caused by microorganisms. Although frequent hand washing is often... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Jan 27, 2010 - Biomimetic muscle relaxants based on snake venom model - Conference
    Botox is a well known bacterial toxin which is used as muscle relaxant to reduce wrinkled appearance of the skin. Appropriately diluted toxin is...
  • Jan 27, 2010 - Hair styling gels - Technical Paper
    Hair styling gels are generally formulated from anionic thickeners such as crosslinked poly(acrylic acid) or hydrophobically modified copolymers of... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Jan 27, 2010 - Haptics of hair - Conference
    The sensorial effect of a product on hair is very important for its commercial success. For example smoothness and softness are two attributes that...
  • Jan 20, 2010 - Biosurfactants - Technical Paper
    Surfactants are important ingredients in cosmetic products. They do cleansing, emulsification a dispersion,solubilizing, foaming, and thickening in... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Jan 20, 2010 - Simulating human synthetic sebum - Technical Paper
    Sebum is a liquid exudates from the sebaceous gland of the skin. Its function is basically to lubricate the hair emerging out of the follicle and... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Jan 20, 2010 - Tight junctions in skin barrier function - Conference
    Barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC) is critical for the control of moisture loss through the skin. These moisture barriers are built into...
  • Jan 13, 2010 - Formation of hair colors on model substrates - Technical Paper
    Most permanent hair colors are formed by the reaction of p-phenylenediamine and a coupler which is a meta substituted compound such as resorcinol or... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Jan 13, 2010 - Hair color retaining cleansing shampoo - Patent
    Artificially colored hair becomes lighter in shade as it is washed with shampoo. The swelling of hair causes the dyes to diffuse out of the hair on a...
  • Jan 13, 2010 - Image analysis of skin - Technical Paper
    Image analysis is a popular method of making claims about antiaging cosmetic products. The normal approach is to use a high resolution image from a...
  • Jan 06, 2010 - Chitin in skin care - Technical Paper
    Chitin and β-glucan are natural polymers obtained from fungal cell walls. Applications of these on volunteers at 0.5-2% formulations daily over a six...
  • Jan 06, 2010 - New peptidic active for sensitive skin - Conference
    Nearly half the people complain about sensitive skin. Although healthy, sensitive skin is overresponsive to environmental conditions such as...
  • Jan 06, 2010 - Soluble nanoparticles - Patent
    Cosmetically active molecules are often lipophilic or hydrophilic. Delivering these molecules to sites on (or in) the body to be effective over a... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Dec 30, 2009 - Anti-wrinkle formulation - Patent
    Glycation is a physiologic process involving a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and the free amino acid groups of proteins, ultimately...
  • Dec 30, 2009 - Short chain peptides in cosmetics - Patent
    Short chain peptides containing the amino acids, phenylalanine, leucine, alanine, and lysine have been known to have certain biological functions such...
  • Dec 30, 2009 - Trace metals in skin cosmetics - Patent
    The patent discusses a method for topical delivery of trace metals for the modulation of certain metalloenzymes. The method involves mixing of a trace...
  • Dec 23, 2009 - Microwax dispersions in haircare - Technical Paper
    Conventional conditioners for hair are anionic or cationic polymers or low molecular weight compounds and silicones. The beneficial effects of these...
  • Dec 23, 2009 - Modified natural oils in personal care - Technical Paper
    Vegetable oils are extensively used in Asian countries as prewash hair conditioners, as well as for treatment of skin. Ayurveda, Indian system of... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Dec 23, 2009 - Sago palm starch in body powders - Technical Paper
    Body powders most often contained mineral powders such as talc and borax. From a safety point of view the use of talc was questioned because of its... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Dec 16, 2009 - A new sunscreen aid - Technical Paper
    Photodegradation of human skin is known to be caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS), the principal offenders being superoxides and free radicals...
  • Dec 16, 2009 - Alternatives to alpha hydroxy acids in skin care - Technical Paper
    Alpha hydroxyl acids have been used for both cosmetic and dermatological applications. However, topical applications of these compounds have come... (2 Member Reactions)
  • Dec 16, 2009 - Effect of product pH on skin barrier function - Technical Paper
    pH of products which are used on a daily basis play an important part in maintaining desirable skin properties. Human skin is maintained at a pH of...
  • Dec 09, 2009 - Antiaging effect of ascorbic acid iontophoresis - Technical Paper
    Iontophoresis is the application of electrical stimulation of skin with or without an active to bring about desirable therapeutic effects. A common... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Dec 09, 2009 - arNOX enzyme in aging - Technical Paper
    The correlation between facial appearance and aging is well known . Facial wrinkles caused by UV exposure and smoking are known to give the... (1 Member Reaction)
  • Dec 09, 2009 - Collagen promoting effect of Phyllanthus emblica - Technical Paper
    Aging of the skin is often accompanied by the degradation and loss of collagen. The causes generally are related to nutrition and the exposure to UV...
  • Dec 02, 2009 - Improved tissue cohesion by sugar molecules - Conference
    Just as classical hormones such as steroids, small sugar molecules are able to elicit specific biological responses from skin cells at very low...
  • Dec 02, 2009 - Skin transparency and protein carbonylation in stratum corneum - Technical Paper
    Stratum corneum (SC) is a transparent layer of the epidermis. The color of the skin underneath shows up through this layer and gives a lively...
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